Louis Roederer, Collection 242, Champagne

Based on the 2017 vintage, Roederer's NV Brut Collection 242 continues to drink very well, offering up aromas of pear, orange zest, white flowers, almonds and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with racy acids and a bright, saline finish, it's a great success in a challenging base year.

A completely new approach to NV Champagne. The blend is dominated by wine from the most recent vintage, supplemented with Roederer's 'réserve perpetuelle', a blend of older harvests topped up each year. Serious winey wine that is deep-flavoured, dry and has real personality. A beginning, middle and end. A wine that demands attention. Quite persistent. QGV (JR)

42% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir, 22% Pinot Meunier. Composed of 56% from 2017 vintage, with the rest from their perpetual reserve stretching back to 2009. Dosage 8 g/l. Baked apple, rich dairy scent – like strong Parmesan – and light autolysis. Modern, polished and crunchy, with a very savoury finish. Almost austere, and I might prefer a bit more ripeness or flesh. You can't fault the stylishness, however. (RH)