Egly-Ouriet, Brut Rose Grand Cru

Based on the 2014 vintage and disgorged in July 2020, the latest release of Egly's NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of tangerine oil, crisp red berries, toasted almonds and white flowers—in other words, much as I described the 2013-base last year but with a touch more aromatic intensity. Full-bodied, vinous and enveloping, with superb depth at the core, racy acids and a pillowy mousse, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. While it's showing beautifully today, I'd love to revisit it with another year on cork.

Disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of one gram per liter, Egly’s NV Rosé Grand Cru is based on the 2019 vintage, complemented by reserve wines from 2018 and 2017. Composed of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with the majority sourced from Ambonnay, it also incorporates 5% red wine from the same village. The wine bursts from the glass with an expressive bouquet of cranberries, redcurrant, brioche and tangerine zest. Medium-bodied and elegant despite its concentration, it is animated by bright acidity and tension, culminating in a precise, mineral finish. This is a fresh-styled rosé Champagne equally suited for refined apéritif moments or food pairings.

The NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru blends roughly two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay with 2% of red wine. The current release is based on the 2010 vintage and according to Francis, only barrel-fermented parts have been used for the blend. Fresh red berries and cherries on the nose lead to a very fruity, firm, fresh and elegantly textured palate. The wine is lovely, clear and mineral, with aromatic sweet cherry fruit and delicate tannin structure. With two or three grams of dosage, this is virtually an Extra Brut. The grapes were sourced in the Grand Cru terroirs of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay.

The NV Brut Rose is a rich, weighty wine that blossoms on the palate with a multi-dimensional, textured expression of fruit. The wine possesses striking minerality and nuance which paints a very complete picture of how great rose Champagnes can be. Simply put, this is an utterly beautiful wine readers will not want to miss. The NV Brut Rose spent 46 months on its lees and was disgorged in May, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Egly-Ouriet is one of the reference-point growers in Champagne, with a deep selection of wines that offer remarkable transparency to site, vintage and variety. The small, bare-bones winery is located in Ambonnay, one of Champagne’s 17 Grand Cru villages, best-known for yielding broad-shouldered, exuberant Pinot Noir-based wines. The house style is defined by first-class fruit, extended lees aging and no fining and/or filtration. These are among the most pure, unmanipulated Champagnes readers will come across, and the estate’s new releases are all highly recommended. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880, Moon Imports, Genova, Italy; +39 010- 313849

The Non-Vintage Rose is a bright salmon color, with a Burgundian-like nose of cherries, strawberries, and flowers. Deep yet delicate, dry, zesty, vibrant flavors cut a full impression on the palate. Readers should also note the uniformity of the tiny pinpoint bubbles. This is a dazzling rose to drink over the next 4-5 years. It was only recently that I discovered and began extolling the wines of Egly-Ouriet. I realize the large Champagne firms dominate Champagne sales in this country, but one of the most encouraging trends is that small, high quality estate bottlers are now beginning to receive some representation. Egly-Ouriet's Champagnes are so good that I have begun buying them to drink chez moi. The new releases are gorgeous examples of just how rich Champagne can be without being too heavy or cumbersome. Readers will be delighted to know that this small estate prints the date of disgorgement on each bottle, a practice that should be followed by all Champagne producers. Given the intensity of these exquisite wines, they should be drunk with food rather than served as an aperitif. North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841

48 months on lees, disgorged July 2015. Plenty of red fruit on the nose – mostly the orange-skinned Victoria plum. Tight, dry-tasting and quite vinous on the palate. Half wine – half champagne. Satisfying depth and length but with freshness and fine mousse. Very good with some potential to age in bottle. (JH)