2008 Charles Heidsieck, Brut Millesime

The 2008 Brut Millésimé from Charles Hedsieck continues to perform superbly, opening in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of pear, yellow apple, citrus oil, honeycomb, dried white flowers and warm biscuits. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with a racy spine of acidity, a pinpoint mousse, excellent concentration and a long, elegantly chalky finish. This 2008 is still several years from showing all its cards, but it is a brilliant Champagne in the making.

A perfect example of 2008’s drama and class. Beautiful toasted almond top notes sit over coffee and honey, cooked citrus and pure red fruits. There’s a shock of long, vivid acidity here, but the mousse and texture have settled beautifully, the toasted nut richness and grapefruit tones of Chardonnay still full of life. A steely core, but plenty of interest wrapped around it. Yet to hit its peak, although those waiting for the wine to soften may be waiting a while – the flavour development is starting to entice now.

Dense nose and obvious evolution. More evolved in fact than many 2008s. Creamy rather than angular. Light toast. Lively but not as punchy as some other 2008s. (JR)