2014 Bollinger, La Cote aux Enfants Grand Cru, Ay

While one is unlikely—if not hard-pressed—to find complaints with the 2014 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants when enjoyed on its own, it does appear somewhat less harmonious when set against the 2015 and 2013 vintages. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of six grams per liter, it opens from the glass with aromas of ripe pear, beeswax and orange zest. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, vinous and incisive, with an elegantly fleshy core of fruit supported by bright acidity. Lacking both the maturity of vintages such as 2015 and 2012 and the purity of 2013, the 2014 currently seems slightly overshadowed. That said, I wouldn’t be surprised if it gains cohesion and depth with further bottle age—in which case, my current score may ultimately prove conservative. As always, the fruit hails from the northwest-facing sector of a vineyard in Aÿ, this time achieving 10.7% potential alcohol prior to harvest.