2012 Bollinger, La Cote aux Enfants Grand Cru, Ay

With three years of maturation post-disgorgement—following its March 2022 disgorgement with a dosage of eight grams per liter—I am pleased to report that Bollinger’s inaugural 2012 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants is no longer as restrained as described in William Kelley’s 2023 tasting note, and it now presents as expressive and inviting, though unmistakably distinct from the incisive, more linear style of the 2013 vintage. The fruit reached a potential alcohol of 10.9% prior to harvest in 2012, surpassed only by the 2015. On the nose, it reveals a deep bouquet of ripe pear, orange zest, baking spices, toasted nuts and a hint of brioche. Medium- to full-bodied and vinous in character, it is charming and flavorful, with a generous core of fruit supported by tangy acidity and concludes with a long, enveloping finish. Flamboyant and full of character, it is already drinking with satisfaction and unmistakably bears the hallmark of Bollinger’s style.