2015 Domaine Bruno Clavelier, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Cras Vieilles Vignes

The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras comes from slightly sandier soils that Bruno Claveliers' other soils, the vines here between 75- and 85-years-old, the millerandage reducing yields to around 20 hectoliters per hectare in 2015. It has a more concentrated and more powerful bouquet compared to either the Vosne-Romanée or Chambolle-Musigny premier crus, more floral with violet aromas developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit that is counterbalanced with a keen line of acidity that maintains freshness from start to finish. This is vivacious and harmonious, demonstrating one of the appellation's more underrated premier crus in a very positive light. It will require 4-5 years in bottle for the tannins to soften, but it will be worth the wait.

(the production from these very old vines was just 18.5 hectoliters per hectare, according to Clavelier, who noted that, like the Combe d'Orveaux, this vineyard was a tête de cru prior to Phylloxera): Deep red with ruby tones. Vibrant aromas and flavors of black cherry, elderberry, licorice and violet, plus a pungent suggestion of chlorophyll. Densely packed and seamless but also quite brisk, combining vivacious pepper and spice notes with Vosne-like elegance. In spite of the wine's impression of sucrosité , the nobly tannic, slightly saline finish leaves the salivary glands quivering.