2023 Domaine Francois Buffet, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos de la Rougeotte

The 2023 Volnay Clos de la Rougeotte 1er Cru has a linear, correct bouquet with darker fruit than the 2022 last year. It's a little introverted compared to its peers. The palate is ripe and forward with quite sturdy tannins. It's a little Pommard in style, but it just cuts away too fast on the finish.

Paler crimson than this producer’s Champans. Light and lifted and extremely juicy and charming with a light saline note. Lots of fun and finesse. (JR)

Full bottle 1,363 g. The label says Rougeottes, not Clos de la Rougeotte – we're using the Sylvain Pitiot name for the premier cru. There is a remarkable, hypnotic creaminess that sort of offsets and lifts up the intensity of the silky sweetness of this crimson-breasted wine with its feathered tannins. It’s a wine that takes wing on murmurations of iron without weight across sky without boundaries. Iron, flower, cherry, long alto, bleeding red into all the spaces. Fine and flying. (TC)