2018 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Clos Saint-Jean Blanc

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean has also turned out well, unfurling with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely defined, its fleshy core of fruit balanced by juicy acids.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint-Jean 1er Cru comes from a parcel with relatively younger vines, just below Paul Pillot’s parcel. "I learned that this soil does not retain water," Celine told me, meaning that the vines suffered a bit more stress. The wine has a relatively straightforward bouquet, a little resinous in style, and a hint of licorice emerges with time in the glass. The palate is quite powerful and slightly viscous in quality, offering lower acidity than others, good weight in the mouth and a honeyed, orange-peel-infused finish. This is a Chassagne that I think should be broached in its youth.