2015 Hubert Lignier, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Vieilles Vignes

The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru has a wonderful, detailed, charming bouquet of red currant, cranberry and bergamot scents entwined with rose petals and minerals. The palate is well balanced, displaying fine definition, gentle grip and a hint of dried blood filtered through the slightly darker-than-expected fruit on the finish. I appreciate the structure here - très Morey-Saint-Denis. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Bright, dark red. Wilder and more soil-driven on the nose than the Chaffots, with its aromas of raspberry and candied strawberry complicated by smoky minerality. Fat, sweet, broad and full, displaying slightly sauvage red berry flavors complicated by smoky underbrush and clove. Finishes with huge but fine-grained tannins and excellent length. A compellingly plush and silky wine but not currently showing the detail or definition of the Chaffots.

Faconnières and Chenevery, just at the bottom of Clos de la Roche, planted in 1936 and 1952. Massal selection. Just 20-25 hl/ha. Great density and savour. Meaty finish. (JR)