2014 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaut Saint-Jacques

(50% vendange entier; from very old vines that yield small clusters and grapes): Bright medium red. Pungent high-pitched aromas of fresh raspberry, flowers and crushed stone; the most exciting nose among these 2014s to this point, although Croix noted that he finds a lightly vegetal quality from the whole-cluster vinification. Wonderfully silky and seamless, conveying an impression of volume without weight, but still with a faint peppery/green edge. Lovely sneaky length with a firm tannic edge.

The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques, which contains 40% whole cluster fruit, has quite a complex bouquet with black cherries, wild strawberry and cold limestone scents. I appreciate the focus here and present energy. The palate is fresh on the entry with supple tannin. There is not a huge density or depth here, though the finish gently fans out while maintaining requisite tension and mineralité.