2009 Jerome Chezeaux, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots is one of the highlights in this set of 2009s. It is a totally complete, harmonious wine imbued with the essence of dark fruit, sweet spices, menthol and leather, all of which are supported by a firm vein of minerality. Intensely perfumed and mineral through to the finish, the Suchots delivers incredible class and sheer pedigree. The round, harmonious finish completes the wine beautifully. It will be fascinating to see where this goes from here. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990