2020 Lamy-Caillat, Saint-Aubin, En l'Ebaupin

Unfurling in the glass with scents of crisp stone fruit, white flowers, hazelnuts and beeswax, the 2020 Saint-Aubin l'Ebaupin is medium to full-bodied, layered and satiny, exhibiting even more concentration and structure than I perceived during élevage. Textural, even muscular, it concludes with a long, anise-inflected finish.

The 2020 Saint-Aubin En l'Ebaupin, which comes from vines planted in 2015 in a patch that had lain fallow, has a very expressive bouquet that bursts from the glass: yellow plum, apricot and white flowers plus hints of peppermint with time. The palate is beautifully defined with great depth, quite precocious due to the young vines, so what is lacks in mineralité is compensated in pure exuberance.

These are not the most ebullient wines; indeed, austere and restrained. Latent, packed-up substance and energy underneath. Mineral. (MH)