2018 Lamy-Caillat, Bourgogne, Blanc

Only the second rendition of this cuvée, the 2018 Bourgogne Blanc Les Grandes Corvées is showing well from bottle, offering up notes of white flowers, pear, green apple, almonds and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, bright and layered, it's tangy and precise, with a pretty core of fruit and a mineral finish.

Tank sample after a year in barrel (six barrels, one new). Stony site. Suits Chardonnay. 200 m above Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s winery. Very quiet citrus nose but the sample is very cold. A touch smoky. Then an explosion on the palate. Rich, deep and leesy, with a lightly grippy texture and lovely depth. Power and freshness. A very serious Bourgogne. Long, too. Will get more tension with time in tank, thinks Sébastien Caillat. Spicy, leesy, long presence in the mouth. (JH)