2018 Domaine des Croix, Beaune

Unwinding in the glass to reveal aromas of plums, red berries, orange rind and loamy soil, the 2018 Beaune Village is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and incisive, with tangy acids, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish. Still a little closed, it will blossom with a little bottle age.

The 2018 Beaune Village, which contains 20% whole-bunch fruit, had been racked, although David Croix had not added any SO2. The pretty bouquet of brambly red berry fruit and rose petals reveals a touch of warm gravel. The palate is medium-bodied, the 5% new oak showing just a little more on the midpalate, which features crunchy red fruit laced with crushed stone and a brittle finish. Maybe it just lacks a bit of length at the moment.

Rich, toasty, energetic nose. Then perfumed and fun. Quite precocious. But nicely judged and balanced. For those looking for a solid 2018 Beaune. (JR)