2017 Serafin Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is showing brilliantly, bursting with aromas of cherries, licorice and dark chocolate mingled with hints of espresso roast and forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with fine concentration supported by powdery tannins and lively acids. This has turned out very well.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes comes from vines located adjacent to Grand Crus aged up to 100-years. The Vieilles Vignes matures entirely in new oak, it has a nicely focused bouquet that appears to cope with that new wood, though it just occludes a sense of personality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, crisp acidity, quite mineral-driven although the wood coats the mouth on the finish when I would have liked more flesh and fruit.

Mid crimson. Again, there's sweetness of oak spice on the nose but here the red fruit is more intense to balance it. Firm and slightly thick tannins, chewy, but balanced by freshness. Needs time. (JH)