2017 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Champ Gain

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru was clouded by some reduction on the nose, though I feel there is good fruit underneath. The palate is simple, offering red apple, touches of nectarine and a hint of peach. A lilting Puligny without any major ambitions, yet clean and pure with a lot of extract. Just give this 2–3 years to address the aromatics. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

25% new oak. Crystal-clear fruit with a subtle dose of matchstick and dairy on the nose, which gets richer and riper on the palate, and growing in intensity on the finish. After a slow start, this accelerates quickly and gives you all the savoury expression you could wish for, as well as a Chablis-esque seashell element. Really lovely with proper acidic tension on the length. (RH)