2015 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Evocelles

(bottled in late November; from vines planted in 1964 on poor, hillside soil over rock): Moderately saturated medium red. A bit stunted on the nose from the recent bottling. Darker in its fruit character than La Justice, showing good mineral lift and precision to its flavors of black cherry and spices. More grip and length here, not to mention finer tannins.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles has a transparent bouquet, open and well defined, the mineralité clear to see amongst the vivid red berry fruit. The aromatics alongegive off the sense of energy and there is a lovely seaweed (Japanese nori?) note emerging after a couple of minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of sinew on the entry. It is spicier than previous vintages that I have tasted, a touch of dried blood tincturing the red berry fruit, leading to a harmonious but grippy finish that needs to smooth out its edges. The remainder of its élevage will see to that. It is remarkably different from the high density planting La Vigne en Foule but just as worthy of attention.