2015 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue, Musigny Grand Cru, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

Subtle cherry nose with black fruits. More brooding and restrained than Bonnes Mares, becoming more heady with aeration. Sleek attack, again less forthright than Bonnes Mares, but with an irresistible, velvety character that overrides the firm tannins. Fresh acidity enlivens the finish, which is polished, spicy, and very long. There's real grandeur which can only amplify with time.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was also showing extremely well, unfurling in the glass with aromas of ripe cherries, rose petal, dark chocolate, licorice and incense, displaying its framing of new oak a little more obviously than when I tasted it a few months ago. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and complete, with a rich chassis of firm but fine tannins, a deep—even dense—core of fruit and a long, lingering finish. Like the Bonnes Mares, this was immediately identifiable as a de Vogüé wine, but it spoke just as eloquently of Musigny. It's a cuvée that always tastes spectacular from barrel, so it's wonderful to see it living up to expectations in bottle.

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry and bitter chocolate are lifted by the most pungent minerality of this range. Combines compelling sweetness and density, but with a finesse of texture that gives this wine an improbably light touch. Remarkably dense but reserved wine, with purple berry liqueur and mineral flavors conveying terrific lift. Easily the best of these 2015s, finishing with a juicy whiplash of flavor. Here the tannins arrive very late and are perfectly integrated with the wine's fruit and soil elements. Still, this vibrant wine is extremely backward and unevolved in the early going and will require long aging. Winemaker François Millet expects to do a very light fining at the bottling.

The 2015 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has an iridescent purple hue. The showy, very pure, almost glossy bouquet features copious blueberry and black cherry fruit infused with pressed violet petals, all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, rounded and fleshy in style, perhaps with less structure than Mugnier's Musigny, but certainly very long, with a tang of blood orange toward the finish. Primal and currently lacking cohesion, this just needs time. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Brilliant dark crimson. Light gaminess as a top note on real majesty. Polished and very fresh. Sort of struggling not to show off its obvious fruit and to reserve lots of serious stuff. This will make fabulous old bones but there is masses buried underneath. Amazing length. (JR)