2018 Trapet Pere et Fils, Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is more subdued on the nose than Faiveley's Mazis-Chambertin: scents of baked cherry, bergamot, wild strawberry and quite pronounced sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, taut and linear. Some new oak momentarily just impedes the finish that detracts from the terroir expression, but it does cohere wonderfully in the glass. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is a magical wine in the making, and readers might think of it as a more elegant, structurally refined version of Trapet's 1999 Latricières. Wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, coniferous forest floor and rose petals, it's full-bodied, velvety and layered, with an incisive spine of acidity, lively acids and terrific concentration, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This is worth a special effort to seek out.