2012 Trapet Pere et Fils, Chambertin Grand Cru

(90% vendange entier; production here was just 18 hectoliters per hectare, according to Trapet): Brooding, musky aromas of plum, redcurrant, iron, leather, animal fur and smoky minerality. More earth- and less fruit-driven than the Latricieres, conveying a wonderfully silky impression and outstanding volume without weight. Large-scaled but impeccably balanced wine, finishing with big, dusty, broad tannins and outstanding persistence. Strong, sappy minerality and a late note of woodsmoke contribute to this wine's great complexity.

The 2012 Chambertin is by far the most reticent of the Grand Crus today. It has had the most protracted malolactic fermentation and was vinified with the highest amount of whole clusters, at 90%. Although the flavors are intense, the overall impression is of a wine that is raw and not fully formed. It will be interesting to see where this goes over the next year. Right now, the Chambertin is hard to read.