2018 Thibault Liger-Belair, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Les Saint-Georges

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has plenty of ripe, slightly pruney fruit on the nose, almost pastille-like, a little heady with more red fruit emerging with aeration. Some sweaty saddle notes appear with time (Brettanomyces). The palate is a little chewy on the entry with thick and grippy tannins, bold and assertive yet missing grace and tenderness, any essence of Pinoté on the finish. What has gone awry with this bottle? Vexing after its showing from barrel. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Cask sample. Rich and tough without seeming to be obviously so many more times better than the Hautes-Côtes Corvée de Villy . Yes it will probably last longer but for the moment there’s a hint of bitterness on the end. And it’s extremely ripe! (JR)