2015 Thibault Liger-Belair, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

(70% vendange entier ; 80% new oak; Liger-Belair's parcel of small-berried 60-year-old vines on very shallow soil is ideally located close to Latricières-Chambertin and Chambertin): Bright dark red. Captivating perfume of raspberry, rose petal and spices offer superb finesse. Like liquid silk on the palate, conveying terrific depth to its flavors of raspberry, warm spices and smoked meat; more spicy than floral in the mouth. Finishes with lovely purity and thrust, not to mention firm structure and length. Liger-Belair did only pumpovers here, as he wanted "to stretch the wine, not enlarge it."

The 2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a noticeably deep color. It is opaque, backward and saturnine on the nose, offering aromas of black plum and sage that are rather broody at the moment. The medium-bodied palate displays firm tannin and, atypically for the vintage, more black than red fruit. The grippy, slightly overdone, prune-like finish does at least have a nice citric undertow. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Oh my – this nose has a certain magic about it, with tremendous fruit complexity, plus rare spices and the most awesome lifted floral notes. A nose to get lost in – then exquisitely balanced on the palate. Just divine. (RH)