2021 Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

The 2021 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is represented by a "whopping" 170 liters, the usual volume for this monopole-busting cuvée. The bouquet is beautifully-defined, focused and becoming more floral with time. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, fine acidity, white pepper and black pepper, quite persistent on the finish. A sappy delight.

0.04 hectares (<0.1 acre). Not, as it happens, the only tiny plot of Clos de Lambrays preventing an LVMH monopole. There also exists a second plot, belonging to a neighbour, that is currently part of a garden. The monopole that will never be… Tank sample. Mid ruby. Soft, sweet red fruit. Very fine and aérien – lofty – with fine, feathery tannins. Top burgundy for sure. Concentration and refined elegance. A pity there is so little. (MH)