2022 Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay, Clos du Roy

The Marsannay Clos du Roy from Pataille is consistently among the top wines of the northern Côte de Nuits. The 2022 features soulful, super-ripe cassis and bramble fruit aromas with a savoury, smoky edge. The texture is dense and concentrated, with abundant tannin and enough freshness to drive this to an impressively long finish. The grapes are from Pataille's parcel of more than two hectares of mature vines planted in this south-east facing site's limestone pebbles and clay soil. It is slightly closed at present, but it should open in three to five years and drink well for at least another 20 years after that.

The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with black cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, with a very elegant, poised finish. About as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage.