2010 Serafin Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Fonteny

Good medium red. Expressive aromas of raspberry, minerals and smoked meat. Juicy, sappy and intense, with sharply delineated if youthfully imploded flavors of red berries and spices. Boasts superb intensity and cut, and lovely acid spine, yet comes across as rather feminine in style thanks to its outstanding fruit. The sappy, highly perfumed finishing flavors spread out to saturate the palate. Serafin describes his 2010s as "full bodied-wines that will need long aging. Two thousand ten is a great year for its combination of power and ageability."

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys is strikingly beautiful. A rich fabric of dark red fruit flows effortlessly as this gracious wine opens up in the glass. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is very nicely done. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2025. Christian Serafin doesn’t say a lot, at least not verbally. The wines speak for him eloquently though. Serafin has turned out a lovely set of 2010s. I give the edge to 2009 for consistency across his range, but the top wines here are undoubtedly exciting. They will thrill readers who appreciated transparent, weightless Burgundies. Yields were down 20-30% on average, which is on the lower end of the spectrum within the context of the year. Serafin planned to bottle his 2010s between February and April 2012. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800