2005 Serafin Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Fonteny

Serafin’s 50-year-old vines rendered an outstanding 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Fonteny displaying high-toned fresh and distilled purple plum and black cherry aromas mingled with almond extract and gamey meatiness, a clear, brightly-fruited yet incipiently creamy palate impression, and an impressively long, deeply fruited, marrowy, maple syrup-, caramel- and salt-tinged finish. There is a positively stony sense of minerality displayed as well. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($20.00; 86); 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($28.00; 86). It seems fitting that the wines of Serafin – who trained as a carpenter – would be surrounded by new wood. For all of their intense fruit (heightened by a week’s pre-fermentative cold soaking), there is a certain stylistic stiffness which, taken together with the natural concentration and structure of the vintage, suggests one would do well to wait six or eight years before pulling any corks. Serafin – who likens them to more concentrated, corseted cousins of his 1999s -- does not demur. He also seemed happy to note that he had managed to keep this year’s collection under 14% alcohol. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.

Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, licorice, coffee and smoked meat. Sappy and aromatic in the mouth, with ripe acids framing the dark fruit, coffee and spice flavors. Not a powerhouse but boasts an enticing sugar/acid balance and lovely aromatic persistence. The tannins are firm and ripe.