2010 Serafin Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Corbeaux

Good medium red. Musky but reticent aromas of black cherry and red berries. Sappy, juicy and very firm, with an impression of strong acidity keeping the red fruit flavors under wraps today. Powerfully structured wine with a bit of finishing toughness. This seemed to close up in the glass.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux is rather exuberant in its up-front fruit, but that first impression dissipates a bit as the wine finds its sense of classicism with time in the glass. The Corbeaux possesses gorgeous mid-palate pliancy with an underpinning of firm tannin that will allow it to age gracefully for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Christian Serafin doesn’t say a lot, at least not verbally. The wines speak for him eloquently though. Serafin has turned out a lovely set of 2010s. I give the edge to 2009 for consistency across his range, but the top wines here are undoubtedly exciting. They will thrill readers who appreciated transparent, weightless Burgundies. Yields were down 20-30% on average, which is on the lower end of the spectrum within the context of the year. Serafin planned to bottle his 2010s between February and April 2012. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800