2010 Serafin Pere et Fils, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Baudes

Good bright, full red. High-pitched aromas of cherry, raspberry, orange rind and mint, plus a whiff of smoke. Less round and open-knit than the Fontenys but very pure and strong for this cuvee, with the combination of crushed-stone minerality and acid spine giving the wine considerable power. Perhaps a bit tough on the finish in a Bonnes-Mares way but unusually full-bodied for this Chambolle.

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes is deep, rich and powerful. The low yields of the vintage have given the wine an extra level of textural richness and sheer depth that is not common among some of the entry-level wines in this collection. The Baudes is a deep, sensual Chambolle that impresses for its rich, expansive personality and some of the structural elements it seems to borrow from neighboring Bonnes-Mares. It will require at least a few years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030. Christian Serafin doesn’t say a lot, at least not verbally. The wines speak for him eloquently though. Serafin has turned out a lovely set of 2010s. I give the edge to 2009 for consistency across his range, but the top wines here are undoubtedly exciting. They will thrill readers who appreciated transparent, weightless Burgundies. Yields were down 20-30% on average, which is on the lower end of the spectrum within the context of the year. Serafin planned to bottle his 2010s between February and April 2012. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800