2022 Samuel Billaud, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru has a thrilling bouquet with real intensity and purity: citrus peel, crushed limestone and sea cave. The palate is exquisite in terms of balance, perfectly judged acidity, saline and fresh with seamlessly integrated oak (50% barrel aged for the first 12 months). This fans out exquisitely on the finish. Oh yes. Oh YES!

Tank sample. Part oaked, part in tank, followed by six months in tank post blending and pre-bottling. Intense, creamy aroma, piercing limey citrus. On the palate, firm, deep and noticeably more oomph than the premier crus, more weight but not in the least heavy. Rich in a Chablis context, firm, long, a real beauty but I am not sure I would pay this much more for the grand cru when I compare it with the pleasure offered by the premiers crus. (JH)