2015 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Referts

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts comes from relatively clayey soils that are cooler and keep the acidity in the wine. It has a delicate bouquet at first, but soon shifts into a higher gear with scents of citrus fruit, dried yellow flowers and fumé aromas. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry with orange rind and hints of apricot, the acidity nicely judged with impressive harmony and tension on the finish. There is a natural swagger to this Les Referts that I hope will be intact once bottled. Excellent.

(from vines at the foot of the hillside): Sexy aromas of lime blossom, musky citrus peel and minerals are accented by ineffable floral high notes. Saline, seamless and concentrated; not especially complex but displays Meursault-like thickness and ripe yellow stone fruits framed by harmonious acidity. Finishes a touch tannic but not bitter. Nicely done in the context of the vintage, and not at all aggressive.

More intense and complex on the nose than the Tufera (tasted immediately before this), the oak more in evidence in a cedary quality. Firm, intensely fresh and focused. Impressively persistent. (JH)