2017 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Hameau de Blagny

Unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp white peach, grapefruit pith, white flowers and subtle hints of orange blossom, the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, with good concentration at the core, racy acids and a long finish with good grip. This is one of the more precise and less fleshy 2017s from Sauzet this year, showing its higher-altitude origins, and that marks it out as a particular success.

(these vines are situated just above Sauzet's Garenne holding, and are older): Pale yellow. Citrus and fresh apricot aromas, along with a floral element that I did not find in the smoky, reduced Garenne, which was going through a closed phase and was impossible to assess with confidence. A step up in texture and sweetness as well, showing a felicitous sugar/acid balance, noteworthy concentration and a fine-grained texture. This broad, fruity wine boasts well-integrated acidity.