2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2008 Chambertin is rather delicate and almost ethereal in its seductive personality. This is another surprisingly open, expressive 2008. The tannins are elegant, while the wine’s balance is simply terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. I tasted the following wines with Frederic Robert, who works alongside Eric Rousseau. In 2009 Rousseau and his team began picking on September 7, the earliest in Gevrey. For the first time the estate used 20% whole clusters on all the wines except for Clos de la Roche, which was closer to 15%. The 2009s were scheduled to be bottled in April 2011. I also tasted a handful of 2008s that were deeply impressive. Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Good full red. Brooding nose hints at menthol and crushed stone; less expressive but more elegant than the Clos de Beze. The biggest, richest and deepest of this series, with powerful minerality contributing to the impression of backbone. Offers outstanding richness and intensity without weight and really expands in the mouth, but this will need a minimum of ten years of cellaring to express its flavor potential. Very closed today and not nearly as sweet as the Clos de Beze. The palate-dusting, powerfully mineral finish goes on and on. I suspect this will eventually merit an even higher score.