2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru

Next came the 2007 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau. Unlike the Mugnier, the bouquet needs no time to warm up, exploding with enticing scents of raspberry, mulberry, touches of camphor and undergrowth, and, after 30 minutes, hints of Japanese green tea and clove. Exquisite in definition, this remained captivating throughout the evening. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, cohesive and, for the 2007 vintage, quite robust and powerful. The velvety texture toward the finish highlights the lack of concentration in the Musigny. An utterly sublime Chambertin that is drinking perfectly now, the 2007 possesses the substance to mature another 20 years in bottle.

Good full red-ruby. More reserved on the nose than the Beze, with terrific sappy verve to its aromas of dark fruits, violet, crushed stone, iron and camphor. Juicy, tightly wound and very intense on first pour, but opened spectacularly in the glass to show outstanding creamy depth without any loss of energy. Today the wine's saline earth tones and minerality have the upper hand over its fruit. There's less easy sweetness here than the Clos de Beze is displaying, but the slow ripening of the vintage is apparent, and the finishing flavors go on and on. It would be a rare (and expensive) treat to try these two wines side by side in 2020 or so.

Utterly hedonistic. This is what everyone seeks in a red burgundy! Heady with notes of mushrooms and complex undergrowth plus lots of Rousseau sweetness. Spicy and gorgeous. Glorious balance and very long. Deceptively ready to enjoy but it will probably linger a long time too. (JR)