2021 Domaine Georges Roumier, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru bursts from the glass with aromas of cherries and berries mingled with orange zest, violets and potpourri framed by a discreet touch of toasty oak. Full-bodied, ample and pure, it's a sensual, seamless, fragrant wine that concludes with a broad, saline finish. Its youthful charm may be deceptive, as there's more than enough substance here for very graceful evolution.

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru contains around 60% whole bunches this year. This comes across a little lean on the nose this year and is subsequently outshone by the superior Ruchottes-Chambertin. Likewise, the palate has Roumier's deftness of touch, yet the season denies it that ballast, the depth and weight of a great Charmes-Chambertin. Hopefully, it will gain more during the remainder of its élevage.

Four barrels in 2021, 25% new oak. Cask sample. Mid cherry. Lovely, rounded sweet red fruit. Very elegant, but with a concentrated core. Great finesse, long. (MH)