2018 Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a stupendous bouquet of brilliantly defined, mineral-infused black and blue fruit, showing laser-like focus and even more complexity than the Bonnes-Mares. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a superb line of acidity and plenty of energy from start to finish. This is a very harmonious and poised Amoureuses where terroir transcends the growing season.

Les Amoureuses is not the most powerful wine but ages as long as Bonnes Mares, suggests Christophe Roumier, and can be even more singularly distinctive. Even in less open vintages, the drinking window starts earlier, he suggests, citing Henri Jayer’s maxim that if a wine is good in youth it will be good for all of its life. Around 65% whole bunch. Barrel sample. Mid cherry red. Superb Chambolle fragrance. Red-fruited, floral, wild flowers. On the palate, sinewy finesse. Outstanding elegance and purity. Paper-fine tannins in layers like tissue paper. So hard to move on to the next wine. The wine seduces you in and then keeps in you in its mineral, dry yet scented hold. (JH)