2018 Domaine Roulot, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes has turned out very well, opening in the glass with notes of pear, white flowers and pastry cream, complemented by nuances of warm bread, nutmeg and anise. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with good depth, concentration and structuring dry extract, exhibiting a promising sense of completeness.

All from Charmes Dessous. Vines planted 1942. Small plot. Deep soils. Higher up so tends to get frosted, as it did in 2019. Tank sample. Less smoky and more subtle on the nose than Le Porusot. Still a touch reductive but more creamy stone fruits. Deep and generous and yet mouth-watering to balance. Fabulous intensity on the mid palate and then lightens up on the finish to more elegance and delicacy. (JH)