2013 Domaine Roulot, Meursault Premier Cru, Porusot

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru le Porusot had a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath there is real drive, real mineralité coming through, with fantastic delineation. The palate is lively and vivacious, with superb acidity, again just a touch of reduction, but there is a lovely twist of sour lemon and ginger on the long, sustained finish. This is an outstanding Meursault from Jean-Marc and it should give one or two years of pleasure (if you can resist opening a bottle.)

Bright light yellow. Strong oak in evidence in the form of high-toned curry spice. Musky and sweet; the richest to this point of these 2013s, but with healthy balancing acidity. The oak adds an element of texture and complexity without overwhelming the wine's stone fruit flavors. Finishes chewy yet light on its feet. Roulot did a bit of lees stirring in 2013 at the end of the fermentations but not afterwards.

This year he's added in some lower, younger vines. At first this seemed a little looser and sweeter than the top lieux-dits though certainly lots of fun. Almonds and great discipline. Lots of attack and depth underneath. A real build towards the finish, however, which is magnificent. (JR)