2013 Jean-Claude Ramonet, Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru is admittedly infanticide, but if someone ordered a bottle from a list to share, would you refuse it? Thought not. And it really shows its class. Surprisingly pale in colour, it is initially extremely backward, refusing to come out and play. Then it unfolds with fleeting glimpses of ground limestone, petrichor, white peach and even a hint of aniseed after a couple of hours in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced, not powerful per se, yet intense with hints of lemongrass and citrus lemon. Tanzer mentioned in his notes that the wine would go into its shell and I can confirm that is the case. But it will blossom into a brilliant Montrachet in a decade's time. Tasted at 21 Boulevard restaurant in Beaune.

Bright, very pale yellow. Complex, extremely subtle, laid-back aromas of musky apple, iodine, marzipan, clove, nutmeg, lavender and crushed rock. Juicy, pure, mineral-driven wine with terrific floral lift to its apple, citrus and white nectarine flavors. Offers compelling sweetness for a young Montrachet and expands dramatically with aeration but it's hard to imagine that this wine won't go into a shell within the next couple years. Its sexy rising finish perfumes the mouth. Again, there's not a trace of hardness here.