2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes

Bright yellow-green. Precise yet subdued aromas of peach, yellow flowers, hazelnut and vanillin oak. Intensely flavored, minerally and fine-grained if a bit youthfully compact, even reduced, showing an almost medicinal quality in the early going. Finishes bright and long, with a repeating impression of minerality and superb energy. This has the palate feel of a Perrières. Colin told me that he "has the piece in the middle of Lafon's horseshoe [-shaped holding] of Charmes, which is at the top of the cru next to Perrières.

Aromas of crisp green and yellow orchard fruits, praline and wheat toast introduce the 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, a medium to full-bodied, dense and fleshy wine with broad shoulders, nice concentration and tangy balancing acids, concluding with a long, expansive finish. Purchased from a longtime source, this is one of the more powerful wines in the range.

In the middle of Lafon’s parcel, below Perrières. Quite high. Was made by Lafon 20 years ago. Racked and back to barrel in August. Will spend several months in tank before bottling in May. Light note of clementine on the nose (though my neighbour in the tasting room has some sort of soapy perfume that may be interfering) and a sweetness that is almost honeyed on the nose. Some creamy oak spice, and on the palate there’s lots of spice too and a honeyed mealy richness. Deep and rounded. There’s freshness but it’s hidden by the rounded richness on the mid palate. Lots of spice on the finish. Big wine but no excess weight. (JH)