2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

A statuesque, refined wine, the 2010 Corton-Charlemagne stands out for its impeccable balance and understated personality. A hint of vanillin in the bouquet leads to bright citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and spice in a delicate, beautifully nuanced Corton-Charlemagne that emphasizes refinement over power. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey follow their stunning 2009s with an equally compelling set of 2010s. The 2010s have deep site-specific signatures, rich fruit and plenty of acidity. Fans of this small, but increasingly high profile address will want to flock to these wines. Pierre Yves Colin started picking on September 22. Yields were down just 5-10%, which is pretty remarkable considering the vintage. It was a difficult vintage in the cellar, as malos were late and slow. When I visited last June, virtually all of the wines were still finishing their malos. With the exception of the St. Aubins, the 2010s spent about 18 months in barrel. The St. Aubins were bottled in November 2011. All of the other 2010s were bottled in April 2012. The 2011s, which I tasted from barrel, are very promising, so there is a lot to look forward to. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

Three 350-litre barrels made; since 2003. Half on Aloxe-Corton side, half on Pernand-Vergelesses side. They pick both parts on the same day, very late, even after St-Aubin, and press the fruit together on same day. The two lots are always very different. Intense and smoky nose. Rich and floral on the nose. Very satin-textured already. Chewy and still quite green. Not very comfortable at the moment. Astringent finish but should be a more ambitious Corton-Charlemagne than most. (JR)