2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, En Remilly

The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers, beeswax and fresh mint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's lively and layered, with lovely mid-palate amplitude, tangy acids and a precise finish.

Picked 27 August. Three parcels, two in the middle that did not suffer water stress but the third parcel higher up (20% of the wine) suffered a little – leaves started to go yellow and berries were smaller and riper (13.2% alcohol). Very sunny spot, particularly calcareous with white soils and vines 45 and 20 years old, which can suffer in hot, dry summers such as 2015. Longer élevage gives wines more tension and minerality. Tank sample. Ripe and open with citrus and clementine fruit. Ginger and delicately spiced but the oak totally backgrounded. Dusty lime. Extreme precision, mouth-watering but the fruit coats the mouth. Intense, open and vibrant in its freshness. (JH)