2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Hommage a Marguerite

The 2016 Saint-Aubin Cuvée Marguerite from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a multi-vineyard blend after frost devastated his vines. This is delicious, quite aromatic on the nose with hints of wild honey, almost like a 2015, touches of peaches and cream after 20 minutes aeration. The palate is harmonious and generous with a fine bead of acidity, hints of almond and traces of vanilla on the finish. There is nothing cerebral here, but it is very delicious. Tasted from a bottle bought on release and tasted at “Brat” restaurant in London.

In the frost-ravaged 2016 vintage, many Saint-Aubin producers opted to blend premiers crus that they ordinarily bottle separately, and that's the case with Pierre-Yves Colin's 2016 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Cuvée Marguerite, a blend of the lieux-dits En Créot, Les Combes and Perrières. The combination is very successful, offering up a classy bouquet of peach pit, green orchard fruit, toasted hazelnuts and a light framing of reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, deep and chewy, with a glossy attack and a deep core. Structurally firm, even somewhat rustic, it's a cuvée to forget for several years in the cellar.

Blend of three parcels and named after his grandmother, who died just before the frost. Very generous on the nose – unusually so for a PYCM wine. Then razor-sharp acidity on the palate; very much the house style! Intense impact on the palate but pretty dry on the end. (JR)