2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, La Chateniere

I revisited Pierre-Yves Colin's 2015 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière from my cellar, and while the wine is slowly emerging from post-bottling hibernation, it remains very youthful, unwinding in the glass with a subtle bouquet of citrus oil, green apple, crisp Anjou pear and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with good depth at the core, incisive acids and a palpable sense of chalky dry extract. While there's a certain sweetness of fruit that nods to the vintage, this is beautifully rendered and is beginning to realize the potential it showed from barrel.

The 2015 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière offers complex, nuanced aromas of red apples, powdered chalk and cold steel; this a little Puligny-like in style with very fine focus. The palate is very well balanced with vibrant acidity, impressive salinity and clearly good presence in the mouth. It gently builds and delivers just a soupçon of viscosity on the finish. Perhaps afford this a year in the cellar, as it has the substance to age.

(a blend of two 45-year-old parcels): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Pure, fresh aromas of lemon, lime, fresh herbs and dusty stone. Boasts lovely texture and balance, with its citrus and crushed stone flavors enlivened by brisk acidity. These parcels are planted on soil rich in calcaire but in a warmer spot than the Champlots, noted Colin. Finishes firm and vibrant, with an attractive light touch. The alcohol here is a moderate 12.8%.