2015 La Pousse d'Or, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

(two of the four barrels were new; the production here was just 25 hectoliters per hectare, according to Landanger): Bright ruby. Sexy perfume of black raspberry, minerals, brown spices, licorice pastille and underbrush. Plush, sweet and smooth, offering superb concentration, energy and balance. Utterly seamless wine with terrific inner-mouth floral lift. The wine's strong fruit blows past the firm, late-arriving tannins on the juicy, gripping, very long finish.

The 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was showing just a tiny reduction on the nose, but there is clearly plenty of black fruit tucked underneath, later touches of kirsch, violet and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and well-judged acidity. It tightens up towards the structured, more Clos Saint-Denis-inspired finish, yet the length and persistence in the mouth is impressive. I would just like more nervosité to come through and perhaps even a touch more charm. Otherwise this is a commendable Clos de la Roche that should offer a couple decades of drinking pleasure.

Not yet bottled. Pure-fruited nose. So pure. Confident, beautiful aromas. You almost don't want to taste this wine it smells so good. Brocade tannins, tightly braided with silk cord. Oak is still evident. Very very young. (TC)