2022 Domaine Ponsot, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc hadn't completed its malolactic fermentation when I tasted, and it may go to bottle like that. Offering up a reductive bouquet of lime zest, green apple, white flowers and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive, with tangy acids to underpin the additional plenitude conferred by the warm year, concluding with a mineral finish.

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Luisants Blanc 1er Cru never started its malolactic and so had not received any SO2. Its well-defined bouquet offers apricot blossom, grapefruit, and light, damp, earthy aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry and a crisp citrus thread of acidity that keeps this Aligoté on its toes. It is very spicy on the finish with white pepper and a touch of curry leaf. I like the energy here to the point that I don't think it's such a bad thing if it never goes through its malolactic! Just a slight oxidative back note. It's an intriguing wine that's a bit raw but would go down a treat with some fruits de mer.