2023 Domaine Ponsot, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, Alouettes

The ‘Alouettes’ is the polar opposite of the village-level ‘Grives’ – sometimes the bird theme is a bit confusing. The premier cru also comes from Monts Luisants, but at the base of the slope and not the top. The result is a wine with more black fruit than red and much more concentration and depth. There is a sensual appeal here and a more substantial heft that suggest that this should age well with time. Open in five years and drink over the next 20.

The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvée Allouettes offers darker fruit than the pair of Cortons tasted immediately before: finely delineated black plum, touches of tangerine and aniseed. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and gentle grip—but there is backbone here, more so than the aforementioned Grand Crus, with a dash of black pepper that enlivens the finish. Very appealing.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.