2013 Olivier Bernstein, Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru

Density, structure and pulsating energy collide in Bernstein's 2013 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, a visceral, thrilling wine endowed with tons of pure personality. Violets, lavender and spices wrap around the dark finish. Today, the Bèze comes across as quite raw and not fully formed, but that is not too surprising given the personality of this site. Still, readers should be prepared to cellar the 2013 for at least a handful of years.

Bright red-ruby. Deep aromas of purple fruits, licorice and smoky minerality lifted by a sexy peppery quality. Wonderfully pliant but classically dry and reticent in the early going, displaying a musky quality to the ripe flavors of black and purple fruits, licorice, pepper and herbs. The most tannic and closed of these 2013s to this point, with the tannins dusting the tongue and incisors, but piquant raspberry and peppery spice notes stain the palate.

Samples from two different oaks, mixed in a half bottle. Very dramatic nose and full of life and fruit. In the Bernstein style with new oak in evidence but really well balanced and tight. Not massive but very burgundian and chock full of fruit. Long and energetic. Fine tannins hidden underneath. (JR)