2009 Olivier Bernstein, Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru

(Bernstein's new cuvee in 2009, consisting of four barrels from old vines in the high part of the cru, on the Mazis side) Deep ruby-red. Extremely pure and subtle aromas and flavors of blueberry, pungent five-spice powder, noble white pepper, sexy underbrush and caramel. Lush on entry but with no easy sweetness showing today. A wine of uncanny energy and sappiness, still an infant today but displaying great harmony and elegance for such intensity of flavor. The gripping, palate-staining finish simply does not want to stop. This should be a cellar treasure.

New for this year. Dark and rich purple. Succulent but introvert. Lots of juicy fruit that has, most agreeably, eaten up the new oak character. Really quite juicy. I could so easily imagine this with roast game – grouse, say! Should settle down and become rather an exciting, complex bottle. (JR)