2016 Olivier Bernstein, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

(Bernstein works with two strips of vines that extend from the bottom to the top of the cru on the Chambolle side, thus giving him both red and white soil influences): Healthy dark red with ruby suggestions. Reticent, pure aromas of musky raspberry, spices and rocky minerality, lifted by a floral topnote. Boasts terrific precision and inner-mouth mineral grip but this is youthfully imploded today and less accessible than the Clos de la Roche, with a touch of peppery stems contributing to the impression of tension. The very long, building finish stimulates the salivary glands, leaving behind notes of black and white pepper in the empty glass. This wine, too, should be long-lived. Bernstein vinified in 2016 with an average of 50% whole clusters but this one was more like two-thirds.