2013 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Suchots

(these vines date back to the 1910s, making them the estate's oldest along with their Romanée-Saint-Vivant): Bright, dark red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Beaumonts, showing earth and smoke nuances. Then round and saline in the mouth, with the strong soil character following through. If the Beamonts is about red fruits, this one is about black. Even though these two appellations touch, the Hudelot-Noëllat parcels are "at opposite altitudes," notes Charles van Canneyt. Finishes with building dusty tannins and excellent length. This will offer more early accessibility than the Beaumonts owing to its earthy depth and sheer volume but should age well.

Delicate, pretty, with some depth on the nose. High acid lends an unwelcome tartness – this is Suchots, after all! Couldn’t it be a bit plusher? (AH)